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Apalachicola River Trips 2010

An epic one to two week Kayak & Canoe Educational Adventure of 250 miles from Columbus to the Gulf

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Trip Journals and Poetry from the Apalachicola River

From Columbus, GA to the Gulf

 

Last updated 4/27/2010

 

 

This paddle experience brings forth amazing memories and stories that last a lifetime.  We would like to share some of the journals and poetry that have emerged from the river.  First is the name of our reliable support vessel, the Starfish Enterprise, whose name emerged from her maiden voyage.  Surrounded by paddlers, she began her mission among the waters of the Apalachicola River and Bay.  Inspiration comes with the time for clear thinking which is in abundant supply along the days of paddling and friendship around the campfire. 

 

Please enjoy the following and be sure to add yours after your epic journey.

 

I am the Apalachicola River, By Marilyn Blackwell, Educational presenter

 

Apalachicola River Paddling Trip – 2009, By Larry Binder, Participant

 

Chattahoochee to Apalachicola Boat Excursion, By Gary R. Crumley

 

 

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I am the Apalachicola River

By Marilyn Blackwell, Educational presenter

 

 

I am woman; mother; giver of life.

My locks of hair is my beginning.

My arms reach out from my long and sinuous body.

The swamp is my womb.

I mate with the ocean during the eternal rise and fall of the tide.

The flood plain is my charge, which I sweep clean in early spring and bring forth the crawfish from their underground burrows.

Mothers sweep the tinny babies from their undersides and into my waters to forage and grow. 

In turn, the crawfish will feed the bird, fish, the raccoon, otter and possum.

My swollen waters clean the off-river dens of the alligator, the otter and the den of the snapping turtle under an old tusset.

My swelling drives out the still, stagnant waters from off-river lakes and ponds, replacing it with clean, fresh water containing life that will forage and grow and will be foraged upon.

During my swollen time, the flowers bloom and the egret nest over me. The snail attaches it’s pearly eggs on plant stems just above me.

All are nourishment for another, leaving only seed enough for the season to come.

In my womb where my mysteries abide, devoid of seekers, my children serenade me with sounds that lift, enchant and inspire.

Dozens of tree frogs roll out a synchronized song that will end in an instant.

The raccoon plays the castanets and the bull alligator plays the tuba. The owl demands that you hear and understand. The fish and beaver slap my waters for emphasis. All other creatures come in on cue.

With summer coming, I recede into myself, carrying the bounty of nutrients to my children round my feet. The oyster will grow fat and the sea grasses will flourish.

These many thousands of years I have existed to give life.

Mankind, whom I have also fed and sheltered has come to harm me.

He has taken more than I had to give.

He has accepted the gifts and taken a part of the giver.

I am unable to coach the crawfish from their burrows.

The otter den remained foul, then dried up.

The springtime music of my womb grows faint and my children perish at my feet.

Their claims of restoration bring further harm.

Grant me time to heal, grant me my life’s water back.

 

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Apalachicola River Paddling Trip – 2009

By Larry Binder

 

 

 

Introduction :  Hope I didn't leave too much of importance out.  And these are obviously just my opinions.  I hope the formatting doesn't get all messed up on your end.  Thanks once again to George and his staff for all their hard work, and to my fellow paddlers for being such good companions.

 

Wed, 10/28 - I drove to Harry's, loaded his gear, gave my cell phone to Mary so we could take theirs on the trip, and headed to the beach.  We arrived after 6 1/2 hours and found very nice weather and the house in good shape.  Had dinner at Two Al's, then watched the Phillies take a game from the Yankees.  Too cloudy for satellites.  Harry had bought a new electric heater and I brought one of ours down, but didn't need either, and even a blanket, though it was chilly outside.

 

Thu - We picked up pine cones from the yard, mowed and weed-eated, finishing after lunch, as it's a big yard and the mower is only a 22 incher.  Many pinecones, at least 5 wheelbarrows full.  Luckily, Harry had brought sandwich fixings, then we ate at Two Al's again, this time getting there on "Trivial Pursuit" night.  We did well the first round, but came in last at the end.  We're blaming our defeat on the fact that the other teams had 5-8 players.

Watched the Yankees take a lead, then went to do some re-packing for the trip and start Cornwell's "Case Solved."

Cool, but no blanket or heater needed.

 

Fri - Arrived about 20 minutes early at the museum, but there were already other paddlers there unloading gear and putting their boats on the trailer.  Patti arrived soon and told us the shuttle van would be late because of a dead battery, so we had some time to kill, using it to get acquainted with Carl, Fred and Mary, Jim and Julie, and Terry and Frida.  When Jimmy arrived with the van, about 40 minutes late, we all loaded up, took our cars to a city lot away from downtown, and headed north for Chattahoochee, where the trip would start just below the Jim Woodruff Dam that forms Lake Seminole, catching flow from the Chattahoochee and Flint rivers.  George Floyd, the major benefactor of the Museum, as well as the owner of The Dam Store in Buford, Georgia, has bought 140 acres below the dam and is converting an old commercial building into another canoe/kayak/outpost, and that's where we were staying.  We had a late lunch of catered fried chicken and met more paddlers and members of the staff, especially Neva, the program manager, and George, who gave a short talk about why he is dedicating his life to defending the rivers.  We also met the City Manager, Lee Garner, and had a driving tour of Chattahoochee, location of the Florida State Mental Hospital, as well as a tour and talk/movie by the Corps of Engineers Rangers at the Dam visitor center.  We were too late for the tour of the power generating room.  On the way back to the campground we took a short nature walk to a spring fed pool that the town is hoping to restore to use.

 

When Lee left he offered to pick up some missing items, like Croakies and ponchos at the Dollar Store.  He returned later with them and some boiled peanuts and refused to take payment for any of it.  Starfish is a pontoon about 40 feet by 15 feet, with sinks, shower, tankless water heater, 2 fridges, freezer, icemaker, huge gas grill, marine head, large Honda generator, and 2 large freshwater tanks.  It also has a full canvas roof and lots of storage.  Jeremy is the Captain and designed the craft, and Iris is the live-aboard Cook who planned and prepared all our meals.  I got to know them well after volunteering to make coffee the first morning, and then the rest of the mornings on the river.  Made me sort of a semi-staffer, letting me spend more time with them, George, Neva, and Patti.  Also helped me get a shower every other day!  Back at camp we had Dale Crider as a speaker.  He is a retired wildlife biologist for the Florida Wildlife Commission, and spoke and sang to us of wild mushrooms and the history of the river and area.  Fascinating speaker, and he had folks pointing out familiar mushrooms and even eating them the rest of the trip.  After all the paddlers had arrived, we found that there were about 20 of us, and about 10 staffers, all going down the river.  In the 20 were 8 women from Bozeman, Montana.  They are members of the Bozeman Women's Activity Group, and ranged in age from about 50 to 73.  They do strenuous outdoor things like backpack, kayak, cross-country skiing, etc. at home, and found out about this trip from Martha, one of their members, who has been visiting Apalachicola for a while, now building a place on Cape San Blas.  Eva, the oldest, was always one of the front4 or 5 boats on the river.  The only problem I had with the BWAG's was when they taught me on Sunday how to do "Brocades,"  Yoga exercises that might have caused my shoulders to ache the next 5 days.  Or maybe it was the paddling.  We had catered ribs for dinner, then anticipated a campfire with singing, but it started to rain, so Harry and I went to bed early.  His backpacking tent is tiny, but light and easy to setup, and weather-proof!  I had taken a shower earlier in a temporary facility they set up far down the side of the building.  No hot water!

 

Sat - Up early and helped Iris find the coffee supplies and get it percolating.  She cooked a hot breakfast, including some sautéed wild mushrooms!  Lots of packing and shuttling of gear and boats to the put-in, which was in a city park about 1/4 mile away.  The Starfish really looked massive on its boat trailer, but they got it launched OK.  I spotted our first bald eagle while we were still packing.  We didn't get on the river until 2, so paddled down to the campsite for lunch, then headed down to our first night's sandbar, at MM98.  The dam is at MM108, so only 10 miles, but we had to get there before dark and make camp, so it was a hard paddle.  We crossed under the I10 bridge at MM100, and were delighted when several truckers sounded their air horns at us.  The river was about 9 feet above normal due to heavy recent rains in Georgia, so the flow was almost 4 miles per hour.  Helped with the paddling.  Grounding and tying off the Starfish was interesting, especially as the river was expected to drop about a foot overnight.  Lots of room on the sandbar, and we enjoyed making camp, visiting, dinner around the campfire, then classical Spanish guitar playing by Sam, one of the staffers.  We had collected a huge pile of wood, about 3 days supply I estimated, but burned almost all of it.  George really likes a big fire, and the portable "stars and moon" cast iron fire pit he brought along really looked neat, kept the fire off the ground, and provided a lot of heat.  Harry and I to bed early again when the rain came back.  It had threatened all day, but luckily waited until then.  Daylight Savings Time ended that night, so we got an extra hour of well-needed rest.

 

            Sun - We were slow breaking camp, then the staff had to work hard pulling the Starfish off the sandbar with one of the Mako powerboats.  After packing we were ferried back up the river about a mile by the 2 Makos to Aspalaga Landing, property recently acquired by the State of Florida, for a 90 minute hike led by 3 volunteers showing us the endangered Torreya Tree and other environmental things in the ravine filled area.  One of the volunteers is a volunteer firefighter, so we visited a bit.  I found a great8 point deer skull.  Then ferried back to the sandbar for lunch and some hard paddling to our next sandbar, which turned out to be submerged, so George found us a campsite in the woods along a small creek near Alum Bluffs, near where we should have camped at MM84.  Harry and I swapped ends of the canoe today, and it worked just fine, though he had to keep telling me to "Stop steering, just paddle!"  The sides of the creek were muddy and slippery and about 3 feet high, and we had one paddler fall into the creek.  We pitched our tents all along the creek and they pulled the Starfish up to the shore close enough for the gangplank from the side to reach and tied the boat and used long planks to keep it in place, as we were on the outside curve, with lots of current.  We got there about 30 minutes before sunset, so worked hard to get camp set before dark.  Another great supper, delicious soup - garlic bread - pound cake, and Sam played some more.  Glad that they brought along enough folding camp chairs for all of us, even though it meant more stuff to load and unload each day.  They brought along the two 19 foot Makos and a 14 foot johnboat to carry all the gear, and we really needed all that space, as few of us kept our gear below the 35 pound limit.  Another huge pile of driftwood burned, thanks to the recent flooding of the area.  Harry and I had a nice flat tent site, and they put up the normal Tiki torches near the tents, but we were way back in the woods, so needed a flashlight to get to it.  A little too close to Gary, who snores, and the staff, who had a meeting every night after the campfire.  Had my first shower on the pontoon, even though it was pretty chilly that night.

 

            Mon - I woke early and saw no lights on the Starfish, so got the fire going again, then went to the boat to wake Iris and Jeremy, who never once were awake when I got to the boat in the morning, always blaming it on a missing or faulty alarm clock or cellphone.  By the end of the trip I was one switch position short of being able to get the generator running to perc the coffee!  Job security for the Captain.  After another slow camp takedown we paddled down to Blountstown Landing, where we were met by the guest speakers and vans, which took us to their Pioneer Village.  Very interesting place, but we spent too much time there listening to Mr. Thomas, the former County School Superintendent, and touring the various old cabins.  It was about 2pm before we got back on the river, so George decided we would come aboard the Starfish a few at a time for lunch as we motored and paddled downriver.  Harry and I were first aboard, as we delivered Neva to the boat.  We enjoyed hotdogs and were getting ready to launch when Mary tried to get up to the pontoon and was rolled into the river, maybe because we had 4 or 5 boats tied off on that side, creating too big an angle for her to approach safely.  The crew handled her dunking very well, even getting her into a hot shower and loaning her some of Iris's clothes.  The rest of lunch went fine, but Harry and I missed the speaker's talk on The Florida Trail.  We paddled hard to the Estiffanulga county boat ramp at MM63, where we camped, because our planned sandbar at MM62 was submerged, arriving again late in the day.  Jeremy had some interesting moments bringing the pontoon in to the ramp because of the fast current, the eddy where the cut to the ramp was, and a brisk wind blowing up river.  Very nice facility with flush toilets and road access, so were able to exchange guest speakers.  Very good steak dinner after I helped Jeremy figure out why his new propane tank would not flow gas to the grill.  Now George knows my name.  Found out that Iris had pre-cooked a lot of the meals and merely had to heat them up, but most breakfasts and the steaks were certainly cooked on scene.  Martha and the BWAG's did KP. Had a very interesting talk by Steve Leitman, a Professor at FSU, who has been helping environmentalists fight the water wars with Georgia.  He's well known by the governors of the3 states, and reminded me a lot of my Scoutmaster in the way he talked about things from a strategic point of view. Earlier he had paddled with us up a side slough called Sutton Bayou that he said had, farther up river than we could paddle, some 20 foot tall cypress knees, apparently because of the regular flooding of the slough.  Many houseboats tied off along the banks of that slough and the main river, starting right after we launched on Saturday, but few people visible.  After the speakers, Jimmy played and sang some country and bluegrass songs, joined in a bit by Sam. 

 

            Tue - A pretty quick camp breakdown, as we knew we had another 20 mile day coming.  We finally stopped for the night at Iola Landing, a privately owned but open to the public boat ramp at MM45 because the sandbar at MM43 was submerged.  Had my second shower before supper.  Just ahead of me in the shower was Eva, who lost her shampoo overboard.

Harry and I retrieved it the next morning and returned it to her on the river.  Jim went swimming alongside the boat while I showered, but noticed a deer carcass floating near him in the water, so ended up taking a shower also.  Harry and I and 2 others volunteered to do KP, and ate first, a delicious Jambalaya.  Then we were told we would do KP another day because there were so few dishes!  But we never had another meal with lots of dishes, so never got to do KP, though I washed quite a few cups in the mornings for coffee. Harry and I made sure our tent was far from the staff area. Around the campfire we had a talk by Phillip McMillan, an employee of the Neal Timber Company, which owns the boat ramp and lets George's groups camp there.  Late that night we were awakened by a noisy 4WD pickup that drove thru the boat ramp loop, then proceeded to play and get stuck in a muddy area along the road, less than 200 feet from one of the tents.  Quite an exciting experience listening to them.

 

            Wed - On the river about 10:30.  Paddled to the Wewahitchka Gaskin Park and Landing, where we met Marilyn Blackwell, a founding member of the Save the Apalachicola River group.  She talked to us about her frustration with the effort to improve the river, then rode with us down the river to her daughter Monica's houseboat, at MM33, where we had a great lunch of fried catfish, hushpuppies, grits, sweet tea, and homemade cake.  All of us had beached our boats on the shore, so had to pull her houseboat closer to the shore using mooring planks so we could board it.  On the way there we passed Sand Mountain, a huge pile of sand dredged by the Corps of Engineers, and were surprised to see a sailboat, "Sophia," moored there.  Turns out it was Linda and Mike, who had been waiting 2 days for us.  They both used to work for the museum, but now have a small resort in Islamorada, BestoftheFloridaKeys.com.  They said they could hear us coming for 30 minutes before we appeared.  They joined us for lunch and moored that night alongside the Starfish.  We saw them again when we finished the trip in Apalachicola.  Linda even remembered meeting me at the museum a couple of years ago!  After lunch we paddled like mad to get to our planned campsite near MM22, Owl Creek, but it got too late and George found us a wooded campsite about MM26.  Again there was a small creek we could paddle in, while the Starfish moored to the bank and Sophia tied off to the pontoon boat.  It was a small, recently flooded area, with lots of small poison ivy on the ground.  George had the staff clear the underbrush with machetes and swing blades.

The BWAGs pitched their tents on a couple of large tarps because several of them are allergic to ivy.  Around the campfire George asked if we could try to leave the campsite by 9am the next morning so we could make up the miles we missed.  We had a guest speaker that night talk to us about woodpeckers, red cockaded and ivory-billed.  Later we heard that the staff was very worried that Neva and Jimmy were late from running him back up the river in a Mako, and couldn't reach them via radio.  Turns out they had been stopped by the Florida Marine Patrol because their front marker lights were out, and their radio battery had died!

The MP was stationed near a marker buoy that was being submerged by the flooded river, there to warn any large boats of the location of the channel.  The staff was very relieved at their safe return.

 

            Thu - Mike woke up the staff at 5 instead of 6 because his cellphone was showing the wrong time, but we did get on the river early, 8:15!  Before we left, the macerator for the marine head got stuck on and put the head out of order!  On the way George led us on a paddle up a side creek that he thought was Owl Creek, where we saw a huge cypress tree, but turns out it wasn't THE Owl Creek, but the "other"

Owl Creek.  Did I mention that we always had a staff boat as lead and another as sweep, and they had radios to stay in touch with each other?  Well, George was usually lead, in a white 20 foot rowing boat, very fast and easy to spot, especially when he rowed standing up!  We arrived around 10 at Ft. Gadsden, a State Historic Site, with displays, pit toilets, and the remains of the Indian/slave fort that exploded when attacked by US troops back in the early 1800's, even though it was in Spanish Florida.  They killed over 270 people with one shot to the powder magazine, and a cemetery there contains their mass graves.  We had run out of propane, so were lucky to have car access there to re-supply both.  Martha's husband George joined us for the last 2 days of the trip.  The staff cooked burgers over a wood fire in the campfire ring, and that made a nice change.  It was a lovely day, we had some spare time, and lots of people napped in the sun or did brocades.  We had 2 guest speakers, the caretaker for the fort, Dave Burkey, and the director of the Apalachicola Estuarine Research Reserve, Seth Blitch, who motored up in his boat to join us.  The day continued to be lovely and we arrived at our planned sand bar campsite at MM14 well before sundown.  Harry got me back for dumping him in the Cahaba all those years ago by dumping me in the Apalachicola as we pulled ashore!  We enjoyed smoked fish, green beans, and mashed potatoes for dinner, served by the staff around the campfire, with talks by Todd Engstrom about woodpeckers and George Watkins about how he makes Tupelo Honey.  Turns out George is the Fire Chief for the Apalach VFD, and only has about 12 active members.  I would have expected them to have a paid department.  For the last 3 days Terry, one of the BWAGs, had been borrowing Percogesic from me because of back pain, and had even ridden in a Mako this day.  Patti and Julie, a nurse, took over her medical care, giving her a real muscle relaxer and anti-inflammatory, and she was much better Friday, but still not able to paddle.  Terry had even traded me a chocolate energy bar for some pills, just as a joke. She got the bar from Sam, who paddled with her a couple of days when her back started hurting.  I was finally able to show the group the ISS and the Hubble that night, as we had clear skies and an open view.  I had my last shower of the trip, again having to use dish soap.

 

            Fri - The water heater wouldn't work this morning, nor for the rest of the trip, so washed cups with cold water.  Lucky I got that shower.  Last day, with few miles, so got going late, 11:15.  George tried to find a side slough for us, but it was closed off by drifted trees, so had to stay in the main river until we turned into the St. Marks River.  We paddled down it for several miles, having made our lunch sandwiches before we left camp.  We did see another alligator and a few more birds, and lots of houseboats.  Finally we cut thru a tidal creek channel for about 3/4 mile, fighting the current/tide the entire distance, reaching the Apalachicola about 2 miles above the town.  George kept us all close together on the east bank because of all the other boats on the river.  It was pretty windy, with large waves, but Harry and I engaged Carl in a three minute race behind a Mako, and did very well at keeping together, but Carl still beat us.  Harry paddled stern today and hardly ever had to tell me to stop steering.  We all paddled together to the west shore and then out under the bridge, MM0, then back up to the museum, accompanied by cheers and boat horns from spectators.  Must have been quite a sight.  Mass confusion at the museum, as everybody had their own ideas about getting away.  George had the staff take the 2 Makos up to a boat ramp and tailored back to the museum, so we had to await their return to get our gear.  Helped several paddlers load their boats on their cars or the trailer for the shuttle back to Chattahoochee.  Some of us also helped unload gear from the johnboat and the Starfish.  Harry and I gave checks to Patti for staff tips and some Tupelo honey.  Got to say goodbye and thank you to Neva, Iris, Jeremy, Jimmy, Sam, and George.  Also goodbye to some of our fellow paddlers.  Harry had offered to Carl to spend the night at the beach house, but he wanted to get on the road.  I helped shuttle 4 of the BWAGs and Patti to her house, where they were spending the night, then Harry and I got on the road.  Dinner at 2 Al's, where we told Little Al all about the trip.  Back at the beach house for a very cold night, even getting my heater out of the car rather than use3 blankets.  Headed home the next morning after winterizing the house.

 

What an amazing journey!

 

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CHATTAHOOCHEE TO APALACHICOLA BOAT EXCURSION 2009

BY GARY R. CRUMLEY 10-30-2009 TO 11-7-2009

 

 

 

INTRODUCTION : UPON MEETING PATTY CHASTAIN IN APALACHICOLA A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO AT A PROGRAM MANAGER’S MEETING FOR THE FLORIDA WATERFRONTS PARTNERSHIP I FOUND AN OPPORTUNITY TO ASSIST A FRIEND OF HERS. SHE INTRODUCED ME TO MR. GEORGE K. FLOYD, WHO WAS KIND ENOUGH TO INVITE ME TO STAY AT HIS PLACE IN ST. GEORGE ISLAND WHILE ATTENDING THE MEETING. HE ASKED IF I COULD HELP CREATE SOME DESIGNS FOR THE APALACHICOLA MARITIME MUSEUM AND I STAYED ON FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS WHILE DEVELOPING A SHELTER FOR HIS NEW DOCK. I WAS INVITED TO RETURN AS HIS GUEST TO SEE THE APALACHICOLA RIVER ON A BOAT EXCURSION FROM CHATTAHOOCHEE TO APALACHICOLA; THIS IS MY STORY.

 

 

OCTOBER 31ST - DAY ONE

I MADE MY DEPARTURE FROM THE BOAT RAMP AT CHATTAHOOCHEE LANDING SATURDAY MORNING AFTER ARRIVING LATE FRIDAY NIGHT FROM MAYPORT. OUR HOST GAVE US A WARM WELCOME AND DESCRIBED THE UPCOMING DAY’S EVENTS WHILE CAUTIONING US ON SAFETY ON THE WATER. OUR EXCURSION DEPARTS (UNDER HUMID CLOUDY SKIES AROUND 78 DEGREES) AT 12:30 IN THE AFTERNOON. HOMER HIRT (A RETIRED NAVAL OFFICER) GAVE US A BRIEF STORY ON THE LOCAL HISTORY OF THE COMMUNITY.  HOMER HIRT IS A MAN WITH A LIFE’S PASSION; THE RIVER STEAMBOAT. BORN IN THE PANHANDLE BACK IN “29, HE GREW UP ON THE RIVER. HIS HOME TODAY IS STILL CLOSE BY THE RIVER IN CHATTAHOOCHEE. HE GLADLY TELLS FOLKS THAT COME TO VISIT ALL ABOUT THE OLD DAYS WHEN THE STEAM BOAT WAS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF THE RIVER; PROVIDING TRANSPORT OF PEOPLE AND SUPPLIES UP AND DOWN THE APALACHICOLA RIVER. A HISTORIAN ON THE SUBJECT, HE DESCRIBED HIS FRIENDSHIP WITH THE RIVER AND THE LAST FIRST CLASS STEAMBOAT CAPTAIN ON IT; CAPTAIN TOM CORLEY.

FROM THE OUTSET AS A CABIN BOY WHO LEFT HIS FARM AS A YOUNG BOY TO BECOMING A “UNLIMITED” CAPTAIN WHO COULD TAKE THE HELM OF ANY VESSEL AT SEA. HE WAS THE BUILDER OF THE LAST COMMERCIAL

STERNWHEELER ON THE RIVER AND ACCOMPLISHED THE TASK AT THE AGE OF EIGHTY YEARS OLD. CAPTAIN CORLEY BUILT HIS BOAT THAT REMAINS TODAY IN COLUMBUS GEORGIA A REMINDER OF A RICH PAST AND PROUD HERITAGE. HE SPENT A LIFETIME AS A MARINE SURVEYOR ALONG THE APALACHICOLA/FLINT RIVERS AND THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER. HE WAS A STRONG COUNCIL AND ADVOCATE FOR THE RIVER; AND ITS NAVIGATION ON IT. HOMER HIRT WATCHED HIS FRIEND PASS AWAY IN 2003 AND CONTINUES TO TELL HIS STORY TODAY. AFTER BREAKFAST WAS SERVED (SCRAMBLED EGGS, BACON, SAUSAGE, TOAST, COFFEE AND JUICE) THE CREW PACKED THE KAYAKS AND CANOES ONTO THE TRAILERS AND TOWED THEM DOWN TO THE RAMP WITH ALL OUR GEAR AND SUPPLIES. AS WE WALKED DOWN THE HARD CLAY ROAD, WE MADE OUR WAY DOWN THE TRAIL TO THE BOAT RAMP ASSISTED BY MYCOLOGIST AND MUSICIAN DALE GRIDER [WHO SANG WOODY GUTHRIE SONGS WHILE WE ATE].  HE GAVE US A LECTURE ON THE VARIOUS EDIBLE MUSHROOMS FOUND IN THE NEARBY FOREST; PICKING UP PIECES OF WOOD COVERED IN THE FUNGI. WE TASTED OYSTER, SHATAKI AND GOLDEN HONEY MUSHROOMS; AND TOOK SOME

TURKEY TAILS TO BOIL LATER ON THAT ARE USED TO CURE THE AILMENTS OF MANKIND; INCLUDING THE AIDS VIRUS. ALTHOUGH HE COULDN’T MAKE THIS TRIP, HE HAS BEEN ON PREVIOUS TRIPS AND HAS ADDED HIS MELODIOUS VOICE AND SONGS TO THE SOUNDTRACK OF THE CD “APALACHICOLA-DOIN’ TIME”; AVAILABLE FOR SALE AT THE APALACHICOLA MARITIME MUSEUM.  THE RIVER WAS WARM AND THERE WERE A COUPLE OF GUYS TOSSING LURES IN

THE WATERS THERE BY THE BRIDGE. A FLOOD FROM UPSTREAM FROM LAKE SEMINOLE HAD RAISED THE WATERS TO A SEASONAL HIGH MARK. WE PACKED OUR GEAR INTO TWO 16' MAKO POWER BOATS WITH 90HP OUTBOARDS. THE DRY BAGS AND GEAR STOWED IN TRASH BAGS FILLED THE BOATS. ALL IN ALL THERE WERE 15 CANOES AND KAYAKS; THE TWO SUPPORT VESSELS, A 16' JOHN BOAT FOR CARRYING CHAIRS, A FIRE PIT, VARIOUS EQUIPMENT AND SOME 2X4S, A 35' POWER CATAMARAN “THE STARFISH” THAT PROVIDED US WITH FOOD STORAGE, SUPPLIES, A GALLEY, A HEAD AND OUTDOOR SHOWER. GEORGE, OUR LEADER, ROWED DOWN THE RIVER IN AN OARED LONG BOAT. AS WE DEPARTED, WE PRACTICED OUR ROWING SKILLS IN THE WARM SHALLOW WATERS CLOSE TO SHORE. MY PENOBSCOT 17' TWO MAN CANOE WAS ALL I COULD HANDLE. WE PUT A SIXTY POUND CHUNK OF STONE IN THE BOW TO BALANCE THE FRONT OF THE CANOE. I LASHED A SMALL AMERICAN FLAG TO THE BOW, THREW IN MY COOLER AND A COUPLE FISHING POLES. FASTENING MY PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICE (PFD) SNUGLY TO MY CHEST. I  AWKWARDLY KNEELED IN THE CANOE AND ATTEMPTED TO PADDLE ON MY KNEES. I THEN SAT LOW IN BACK OF THE CANOE AND PADDLED WITH A SINGLE OAR.  A SHORT DISTANCE DOWNSTREAM AT 1PM WE STOPPED TO HAVE CHICKEN SALAD SANDWICHES WITH APPLES, GRAPES, TACO CHIPS AND SALSA. SOME HALLOWEEN CANDY FOR DESSERT AND AWAY WE WENT DOWN THE RIVER. A COOL FRONT MOVED IN AS WE MADE OUR WAY DOWN THE WINDING RIVER, DRIZZLING A GENTLE SPRINKLE ON OUR PARTY OF INTREPID EXPLORERS. SOME HAD NEVER BEEN TO FLORIDA, COMING AS FAR AS MONTANA. OTHERS WERE LOCALS FROM NEARBY ALABAMA, GEORGIA, AND FLORIDA CITIES SUCH AS HOMASASSA, TALLAHASSEE AND APALACHICOLA . ONE OF THE FOLKS FROM TALLAHASSEE TURNED OUT TO BE JIM ZIMMERMAN; A GUY I PLAYED RUGBY WITH BACK IN THE EIGHTIES. [WHAT A SMALL WORLD WE LIVE IN] ALONG WITH HIS WIFE JULIE. WE ALL COVERED SEVERAL MILES AS A PACK BEFORE SOME OF US BEGAN TO TIRE.

I BECAME BETTER AT PADDLING THE CANOE AS I PICKED UP SPEED USING A DOUBLE PADDLE LIKE THE KAYAKERS WERE USING; THE SUGAR RUSH OF MY TOOTSIE ROLLS KICKING IN AND I SOON CAUGHT UP WITH GEORGE’S LONG

BOAT. I KEPT UP A QUICK PACE FOR ANOTHER MILE OR SO UNTIL I WAS ABLE TO REST A LITTLE AND DRIFT ALONG ON THE GENTLE CURRENT.  I PADDLED SLOWLY TOWARD OUR NEARBY DESTINATION; A SAND BAR JUST SOUTH OF BLUE SPRING RUN. THE NORTH WINDS BEGAN TO CHILL MY WET BODY AND UPON REACHING SHORE, I STARTED TO SHIVER. MY TEETH BEGAN TO CHATTER AND MY LIPS TURNED WHITE AS HYPOTHERMIA SET IN. JIM’S WIFE JULIE AND PATTY SAT ME DOWN, GOT ME OUT OF MY WET CLOTHES AND WRAPPED ME IN A WARM SLEEPING BAG, GOT ME SOME HOT TOWELS AND MADE ME SOME HOT COCOA TO DRINK.  MY SHOULDERS AND NECK WERE STIFF AS A BOARD AND HURT LIKE HECK. THEY PUT A HEAT PACK ON MY SHOULDERS AND I WAS EVENTUALLY NURSED BACK TO HEALTH. A SPRAINED SHOULDER ENDED MY DAY WITH THE KNOWLEDGE I WOULD NOT BE PADDLING ANY TIME SOON.

WE PITCHED CAMP, BUILT A BIG FIRE TO WARM OURSELVES WITH AND SANG SONGS AFTER ENJOYING A HEARTY MEAL OF SMOKED TURKEY WITH GRAVY, YELLOW RICE AND COLLARD GREENS. BEING IT WAS HALLOWEEN NIGHT WE STARTED A SPOOKY STORY CIRCLE WITH EACH OF US ADDING ANOTHER LINE TO THE STORY AS WE WENT HILARIOUSLY AROUND THE CAMP FIRE. NEVA, OUR COORDINATOR FOR OUR EXCURSION, HANDED ME GEORGE’S SONY HANDI-CAM TO VIDEO TAPE THE EVENING. WHILE GEORGE TOLD STORIES OF HIS BELOVED APALACHICOLA WE WATCHED THE FIRE AND LAUGHED AS HIS BLUE MACAW “ZEPHYR” PEAKED FROM UNDER GEORGE’S HOODED SWEATSHIRT TO MIMIC GEORGE SPEAKING . AS THE FIRE STARTED TO DIE UNDER THE DRIZZLING RAIN

WE WENT WEARILY OFF TO SLEEP.  THE NEXT SEVERAL HOURS I TOSSED AND TURNED WITH GREAT DISCOMFORT

FROM THE OVER EXERTION ON MY BODY. I EVENTUALLY DRIFTED INTO A RESTLESS SLEEP, SNORING LOUDLY ENOUGH TO WAKE THE FOLKS IN THE TENTS ON EITHER SIDE OF ME. AT TWO IN THE MORNING UNDER A BRILLIANT MOON AND A CLEAR SKY I WANDERED OVER TO THE “STARFISH” (OUR MOTHER SHIP) TO TURN OFF THE CLASSICAL MUSIC LEFT PLAYING SOFTLY ON THE STEREO THEN SLIPPED BACK INTO MY TENT TO AWAIT THE BREAKING OF THE DAWN.

 

NOVEMBER 1ST - DAY TWO

WE AWOKE TO COUNTRY MUSIC COMING FROM THE STARFISH, COFFEE WAFTING IN THE AIR. AS WE FOUND OURSELVES SOAKED BY THE DEW COVERING OUR TENTS WE STOOD PATIENTLY IN LINE FOR BREAKFAST.  IRIS, OUR LOVELY YOUNG LADY FROM BUFORD GEORGIA WAS IN THE GALLEY AND OFFERED A CHEERFUL GOOD MORNING TO ALL AS SHE SERVED UP SUNDAY MORNING FEAST OF YOGURT, BAGELS, MUFFINS AND JUICES TO START OUR DAY. AS THE MORNING SUN BEGAN TO DRY OUR TENTS AND WARM OUR CHILLED BODIES, THE TWO 16' MAKOS SHUTTLED OUR PARTY UP RIVER TO TAKE A NATURE HIKE IN THE TORREYA STATE PARK’S LOWER BASIN. THE UPLAND BUFFER HAMMOCK WAS FULL OF WONDROUS FERNS, ORCHIDS, WILD FLOWERS AND ANCIENT TREES THAT COVERED THE FOREST FLOOR AND UP STEEP RAVINES WITH OUTCROPPINGS OF LIMESTONE SPRINGS TRICKLING DOWN THE SLOPES, CUTTING INTO THE FACES OF THE BLUFFS. PARK VOLUNTEERS BILL AND PAM ANDERSON TOOK US THROUGH THE FOREST AND TOLD US OF THE MANY PLANTS FOUND THERE; THIS FOREST BEING ONE OF THE TOP FIVE IN BIODIVERSITY AROUND THE COUNTRY.  THERE IN THE FOREST, I REACQUAINTED MYSELF WITH NATIVE SPECIES OF

HOLLIES, MAGNOLIAS, AZALEAS AND FERNS THAT I HAD STUDIED TWENTY-FIVE YEARS AGO AS A STUDENT IN LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA. IT WAS AS IF I HAD TAKEN A JOURNEY BACK IN TIME. I FASHIONED A WALKING STICK FROM A FALLEN LIMB AS WE MEANDERED THE FOREST SLOPES AND CROSSED MINIATURE WATERWAYS CUTTING THEIR WAY THROUGH THE LEAF COVERED GROUND OF WHITE CLAY AND RIVER GRAVEL.  UPON OUR RETURN AT NOON WE REPLENISHED OURSELVES WITH A LUNCH CONSISTING OF A BAR B QUE SANDWICH WITH POTATO SALAD, FRESH VEGETABLES AND SPINACH DIP. THE SUN HAD WARMED THE SAND BAR AND

OUR TENTS WERE FINALLY DRIED. THE RIVER HAD FALLEN ABOUT A FOOT OVERNIGHT, LEAVING THE STARFISH GROUNDED ON THE BEACH. WE BROKE CAMP AND HEADED SOUTH DOWN THE RIVER AFTER PUSHING THE STARFISH

OFF THE SAND BAR. CAPTAIN JEREMY GUIDED THE BOAT DOWN PAST LITTLE SWEETWATER CREEK TO OUR PRIMITIVE CAMPGROUND AT ALUM BLUFF IN THE NATURE CONSERVANCIES’ APALACHICOLA BLUFFS AND RAVINES PRESERVE.  AS THE SUN SET WE PITCHED OUR TENTS UNDER A CANOPY OF TREES AMID SPARSELY COVERED GROUND AND BUILT A FIRE FROM THE DEAD WOOD SCATTERED ABOUT. THE STARFISH ANCHORED OFF A STEEP BLUFF AND SERVED UP THE EVENING’S FAIR; BEEF AND VEGETABLE STEW AND GARLIC BREAD. I VOLUNTEERED TO HELP WITH MAKING THE DESSERT; A SARA-LEE POUND CAKE DRIZZLED IN FRUIT PIE FILLINGS OF BLUEBERRY AND STRAWBERRY WITH A HINT OF MERLOT, HEATED IN THE MICROWAVE FOR THIRTY SECONDS; IT WAS DELICIOUS!  SAM, A NEW MEMBER OF THE CREW, PLAYED GUITAR BY THE FIRELIGHT TO THE DELIGHT OF EVERYONE; WHILE SEVERAL OF THE LADIES PRESENT FLIRTED WITH HIM AND HIS CURLY LOCKS AND YOUTHFUL LEBANESE GOOD LOOKS. THE

MOON SHOWN BRIGHTLY THROUGH THE TREES AS WE DRIFTED ONE BY ONE OFF TO SLEEP. I WENT TO MY TENT TO WRITE THE DOINGS OF THE DAY.

 

NOVEMBER 2ND - DAY THREE

GEORGE WAS ANXIOUS TO GET THINGS UNDERWAY EARLY AS WE HAD A BUSY DAY AHEAD OF US. HOT OATMEAL WITH RAISINS, CINNAMON, MAPLE SYRUP AND SAUSAGES GOT OUR BELLIES FILLED AND HELPED GET THE DAY GOING.

OUR GROUP LANDED BY MID MORNING AT NEAL LANDING; WHERE TOUR GUIDES PICKED US UP IN TWO SHUTTLE VANS AND TOOK US TO VISIT BLOUNTSTOWN AND THE PANHANDLE PIONEER SETTLEMENT AT SAM ATKINS

PARK. SETTLEMENT DIRECTOR MARTI VICKERY GREETED US INSIDE THE OLD FRINK GYMNASIUM TO TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE PARK.  THEN WE SPLIT INTO TWO GROUPS TO WALK THE GROUNDS. MY VOLUNTEER GUIDE, LAWANA MCDONALD, GREW UP IN THE AREA AND REGALED US WITH INTERESTING TIDBITS ABOUT HER LIFE GROWING UP IN THE RURAL COMMUNITY. WE TOURED LOG CABINS BUILT IN THE 1820'S, ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY YEAR OLD CABINS, AN OLD TWO ROOM SCHOOL HOUSE, A SMOKE HOUSE, A GRAVEYARD, SOME TURKEY AND HOG PENS, FRUIT GROVES COVERED WITH FIGS, PERSIMMONS, LOQUATS AND ORANGE TREES READY TO EAT, HERB AND FLOWER GARDENS, A ONE CELL JAIL HOUSE CALLED THE ALTHA CALABOOSE AND FINALLY THE OLD CLARKSVILLE GENERAL STORE AND POST OFFICE WITH SOUVENIRS AND CANDY FOR SALE TO THE VISITORS.

SADLY AS WE LEFT, A TRAILER BURNED AS FIRE TRUCKS HURRIED TO THE SCENE. OUR VAN DRIVER TOLD US AN OLD MAN THERE HAD LOST HIS WIFE; SHE HAD COMMITTED SUICIDE THE MONTH BEFORE. IT WAS AN ALL TOO GRIM

REMINDER OF THE DIFFICULT TIMES WE ARE ALL FACING DURING THIS RECESSION. WE THANKED OUR GUIDES AND HURRIED TO GET BACK UNDERWAY.  IRIS GRILLED UP SOME HOTDOGS WITH ALL THE FIXINGS. THEY WERE HANDED

OFF THE BOAT TO THE PADDLERS ONE BY ONE AS THE GROUP PADDLED DOWN THE QUICKLY MOVING CURRENT OF THE RIVER. WE WOUND OUR WAY THROUGH SEVERAL BENDS AND THEN SLOWED TO PICK UP SOME SPECIAL

GUESTS.  OUR FIRST GUEST WAS KEN WIMMER OF THE FLORIDA NATIONAL SCENIC TRAILS PROGRAM WHO EXPLAINED THE PROGRAM AND ITS CURRENT ISSUES AND AGENDA TO CONNECT TRAILS AND ACQUIRE LAND ON THE PROGRAM’S

BEHALF AS THEY EXPAND THEIR TRAIL THROUGHOUT FLORIDA. HE EXPLAINED HOW OUR TRAILS IN FLORIDA HAVE SOME PLACES THAT HAVE BEEN HELD BY DEVELOPERS WHO ARE RELUCTANT TO LIMIT THEIR OPTIONS BY PROVIDING TRAIL ACCESS THROUGH THEIR LANDS, SUCH AS THE ST. JOE COMPANY.  NEGOTIATIONS ARE BASED ON MILLIONS OF DOLLARS REQUIRED TO GAIN THE LANDS NEEDED YET FUNDS REMAIN ELUSIVE TO THEIR CAUSE AS A RESULT OF THE ECONOMY. STATE FUNDING FROM THE FLORIDA FOREVER PROGRAM HAS COME TO A HALT. ONE OF THE UNIQUE ASPECTS TO THIS TRIP WAS THAT THE LECTURE WAS ONBOARD THE STARFISH; WITH MR. WIMMER ARRIVING AND DEPARTING BY BOAT.  OUR OTHER GUESTS WERE FROM FSU; MR. STEVE LEITMAN AND HIS LADY

COMPANION RANDY. THEY PADDLED THE RIVER WITH US FOR THE DAY AND THEN HELD A SYMPOSIUM ON THE APALACHICOLA RIVER. WE DISCUSSED THE DILEMMAS OF THE RIVER CREATED BY AN EVER INCREASING WATER DEMAND FROM THE HEAD WATERS IN ATLANTA AT LAKE LANIER. TOPICAL DISCUSSIONS ENSUED AFTER STEVE PRESENTED THE ISSUES AT HAND AND RANDY OFFERED HER INSIGHTS TO THE ISSUES. INCREASING WATER DEMANDS COMBINED WITH DROUGHT CONDITIONS HAVE CREATED SERIOUS WATERING RESTRICTIONS IN THE ATLANTA AREA. THE WATER WAR THAT HAS ENSUED WILL ULTIMATELY HAVE TO BE DECIDED BY THE SUPREME COURT. THE RIVER’S WATER FLOW RATES ARE AMONG THE TOP FIVE IN THE COUNTRY YET THE RIVER FAILS TO REACH LEVELS HIGH ENOUGH TO RECHARGE THE ESTUARIES AND SWAMPS.  LEGISLATIVE EFFORTS WILL BE NEEDED IN COLLABORATION WITH FEDERAL AGENCIES LIKE THE ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS TO BALANCE NAVIGATIONAL CONSIDERATIONS WITH ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION OF THE WATER RESOURCES SO HEAVILY IN DEMAND. WITHOUT WATER TO FLUSH THE SWAMPS; SERIOUS ECOLOGICAL RAMIFICATIONS WILL HAVE DIRE EFFECTS THAT WILL

LAST FOREVER IF ACTION IS NOT TAKEN NOW.  THE ESTIFFANULGA BOAT RAMP AND COUNTY PARK OFFERED A MUCH

WELCOMED RESPITE FROM OUR TINY HEAD ONBOARD THE STARFISH AS THEIR FACILITIES INCLUDED RESTROOMS AND A PICNIC SHELTER WITH A PLAYGROUND. IT WAS RATHER HUMOROUS TO FIND THE AUTOMATIC LIGHTS

TURNED THEMSELVES OFF A LITTLE TOO SOON FOR THE LADIES IN THE LADIES ROOM. IRIS WHIPPED UP A BOWL OF HOT GUMBO FOR EVERYONE. WE SANG A FEW SONGS WITH JIMMY AND SAM PLAYING DUELING GUITARS WHILE I SANG ALONG IN THREE PART HARMONY BEFORE WE SNUGGLED IN FOR THE NIGHT.

 

NOVEMBER 3RD - DAY FOUR

WE STARTED THE MORNING WITH A FIRE TO WARM US AFTER A CHILLY NIGHT BENEATH THE STARS, OUR TENTS COVERED IN DEW. AS WE WAITED FOR THE WARMTH OF THE SUN TO DRY OUR GEAR AND REVIVE OUR SPIRITS, IRIS SERVED UP SOME SCRAMBLED EGGS AND BACON WITH JUICE AND COFFEE. WE LOADED UP OUR GEAR AFTER ONE OF GEORGE’S CHILDHOOD FRIENDS, ROE SWEENEY, BROUGHT A COUPLE OF LATE ARRIVALS FROM THE BOSEMAN, MONTANA GANG AND SOME SUPPLIES FOR THE NEXT LEG OF OUR TRIP. WE LOADED UP OUR GEAR ONTO THE BOATS AND HEADED OUT INTO THE BRIGHT, COLD SUN. MY SHOULDER WAS STILL TOO SORE TO SLEEP ON EVEN WITH MY PAIN RELIEVERS SO PADDLING WAS NOT AN OPTION. I VOLUNTEERED TO HELP THE CREW ONBOARD THE STARFISH AND STARTED THE DAY CLEANING THE BOAT DECK AND WASHING THE BREAKFAST DISHES. WHEN LUNCH TIME CAME ALONG I HELPED IRIS MAKE THE NOODLES FOR A COLD TUNA SALAD WE STIRRED UP IN A BIG BOWL WITH OLIVE OIL, SEASONINGS AND FETA CHEESE. WE THEN WRAPPED FOIL OVER THE PLATES AND SENT THEM OVER TO THE FOLKS WAITING IN THEIR CANOES AND KAYAKS IN A BAYOU BY THE SHORE.  I GATHERED UP THE DIRTY DISHES AND SPENT THE REMAINDER OF THE DAY CLEANING THE GALLEY WHILE IRIS GOT SOME WELL DESERVED TIME OFF TO PADDLE A KAYAK DOWN THE RIVER FOR THE AFTERNOON.  JUST BEFORE DARK WE FOUND A SPOT UNDER THE TREES TO STRIKE CAMP AT IOLA LANDING. MUCH TO OUR SURPRISE, A PRIVATE HUNTING CLUB HAD LEFT

ENTRAILS ON THE BOAT RAMP AND THERE WERE TWO DEER CARCASSES FLOATING BY THE LANDING TO GREET US. PHEW! JIM ZIMMERMAN WENT SWIMMING IN THE RIVER AND GOT THE WORST OF IT. HE MADE IMMEDIATELY

FOR THE SHOWER ON BOARD THE STARFISH AS THE REMAINDER OF THE BOSEMAN CONTINGENT REMAINED ON DRY LAND.  THE NEAL LAND AND TIMBER COMPANY HOLDS OWNERSHIP OF ABOUT 76 MILES OF RIVER FRONT ALONG THE APALACHICOLA RIVER. MR. PHIL MACMILLAN, LANDS AND TIMBER MANAGER FOR THE COMPANY, CAME DOWN TO THE LANDING TO SPEAK AT THE CAMP FIRE CIRCLE THAT EVENING; AS LEE AND IRIS COOKED UP SOME STEAKS WITH MASHED POTATOES AND A GREAT BIG SALAD WITH FRESH FRUITS AND WALNUTS FOR DINNER. WE LISTENED WHILE PHIL TOLD US A LITTLE ABOUT THE HISTORY OF THE LAND THERE AND HOW THEIR COMPANY CAME DOWN BACK IN 1918 TO PURCHASE THE LAND FOR THE HARDWOOD TIMBER THERE; PRIMARILY FOR THE SWEET GUM TREES. HE

EXPLAINED THAT WHEN THE VENEER MACHINES CUT THE GUMS, THEY HAD A WAY OF CUTTING THEM LIKE UNROLLING A ROLL OF PAPER THAT MADE THE GUM TREES ESPECIALLY DESIRABLE DUE TO THE SEAMLESS QUALITY OF VENEER THEY PROVIDED. THEIR PRIMARY USE FOR THE VENEER WAS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WIRE CITRUS BOXES USED FOR SHIPPING AROUND THE WORLD. THEY CONTINUE TO VENEER THE HARDWOODS TO THIS DAY. THE

PAPER MILLS ARE ALSO A BIG USER OF TIMBER, WITH ABOUT THIRTY PERCENT OF THE TIMBER LAND’S HARVEST DEVOTED TO PULP WOOD PRODUCTION. THERE ARE AROUND TWENTY FIVE SPECIES OF WOOD GROWING IN ANY

PARTICULAR AREA AFTER A CUTTING OCCURS. PATCH CUTTING OF LAND IS PREFERRED TO TOTAL CLEAR CUTTING. RIVER FRONT BUFFERS REMAIN UNCUT FOR AESTHETIC REASONS, ALTHOUGH OPINIONS DIFFER ON THE PRACTICE OF

ALLOWING THE OLDEST TREES TO DIE AND FALL INTO THE RIVER UNHARVESTED. SOME SAY THE PRACTICE CREATES EROSION OF THE RIVER BANK UNNECESSARILY; OTHERS SAY IT’S THE WAY NATURE INTENDED AND PROVIDES NATURAL HABITAT FOR GOD’S CREATURES. AS THE PATCH CUT TIMBERLANDS BEGIN TO REGROW, THE NATURAL PROGRESSION OF THINGS SELECTIVELY CHOKES OUT THE WEAKER SPECIES UNTIL THERE ARE ABOUT FIVE DOMINANT SPECIES THAT TAKE OVER THE TIMBER LANDS; SWEET GUM, WATER OAK, CYPRESS, HICKORY AND PINE. PHIL WENT ON TO EXPLAIN THAT MANAGEMENT CONTINUES TO BATTLE INVASIVE SPECIES SUCH AS TI-TI TREE AND JAPANESE CREEPING FERN THAT HINDER GROWTH OF THE DESIRABLE SPECIES OF TREES BY RAMPANTLY COVERING OVER THE GROUND.  AFTER DINNER AND THE LECTURE, WE SAT AROUND THE CAMP FIRE UNTIL ONE BY ONE WE DRIFTED OFF TO OUR TENTS TO RECOVER FROM A STRENUOUS DAY OF PADDLING. SAM CONTINUED TO ENTERTAIN US WITH HIS GUITAR AS THE NIGHT GREW LONGER, AND AS THE NIGHT FADED AWAY UNDER A FULL MOON, SO DID WE. ABOUT TWO IN THE MORNING WE WERE INVADED BY MUD BOGGERS IN GIANT TRUCKS WHO RUMBLED AROUND IN THE BOGS NEARBY AND THEN DISAPPEARED AS QUICKLY AS THEY CAME. THE FULL MOON SHOWN BRIGHTLY THROUGH THE TREES. SOME OF THE CAMPERS, INCLUDING MYSELF, SLEPT THROUGH THE ENTIRE EVENT.

 

NOVEMBER 4TH - DAY FIVE

HOT CAKES AND SAUSAGES GREETED US WITH HOT COFFEE AND COCOA. I GOT TO HELP SERVE THE HOT CAKES, BRUSHING THEM WITH MELTED BUTTER AS I STACKED THEM IN THE WARMING PAN. AS THE HUNGRY GANG CAME ABOARD, I DUSTED THE HOT CAKES IN POWDERED SUGAR AND DABBED A TABLESPOON OF BLUEBERRY PIE FILLING ON TOP. A DRIZZLING OF MAPLE SYRUP ON TOP AND WE WERE GOOD TO GO! AFTER EVERYONE GOT THEIR FILL I PUT THE FEW LEFTOVERS IN A ZIP LOCK BAGGIE IN CASE OF A LATE NIGHT HUNGER ATTACK. WE LEFT THE IOLA LANDING BETTER THAN WE FOUND IT BY SWEEPING THE ENTIRE AREA FOR BOTTLES, CANS AND TRASH; FILLING ALMOST A DOZEN BAGS WITH TRASH LEFT BEHIND BY THOSE WHO FAILED TO REMEMBER TO RESPECT MOTHER NATURE.  OUR PARTY MOVED DOWN THE RIVER TO GASKIN PARK AND LANDING WHERE I HELPED THE STARFISH TAKE ON SOME FRESH WATER BEFORE MEETING OUR NEXT GUEST SPEAKER; MARILYN BLACKWELL. A CLOSE SECOND TO MOTHER

NATURE HERSELF; A RIVER KEEPER AND ACTIVIST, SHE HAS HAD A PROFOUND EFFECT IN TAKING ON THE US ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS AND THEIR FAILED ATTEMPTS TO RESTORE THE APALACHICOLA RIVER THROUGH DREDGING AND FILLING. SHE EXPLAINED THE FLOOD PLAINS’ AND ESTUARIES’ IMPORTANCE IN KEEPING NATURE’S BALANCE AND CRITICIZED THE CORPS EFFORTS.  SHE HAS WRITTEN POETICALLY ABOUT THE RIVER.  AS I STOOD ON THE BOAT RAMP CONTEMPLATING THE OVER ALL BEAUTY OF THE MOMENT, A FOUR DOOR ‘57 CHEVY COUPE PULLED UP NEXT TO ME.  I MENTIONED TO THE OWNER, A FELLA NAMED JOHN, THAT I HAD ONE OF THESE FINE CARS BACK IN ‘77 AND WE SWAPPED STORIES ABOUT OUR CARS AND OUR WORK. JOHN HAS A FEW HORSES AND A RANCH OR TWO. NOW RETIRED, HIS SONS TAKE CARE OF THE DAY TO DAY BUSINESS WHILE HE RELAXES AND ENJOYS THE SUNSET YEARS OF HIS LIFE. WE ENJOYED THE VIEW OF THE RIVER TOGETHER AND FELT THE WARMTH OF THE DAY.  I EXPLAINED WHAT THIS TRIP WAS ABOUT AND THE CORE OF OUR MISSION AS WE EXPLORED AND DISCOVERED THE WONDERS OF THE RIVER. I BID HIM A FAREWELL AS I WAS NEEDED ABOARD THE STARFISH, BUT GRATEFUL TO SHARE THE MOMENT. MARILYN CAME ABOARD FOR THE RIDE DOWN THE RIVER. WE WENT TO VISIT HER DAUGHTER MONICA AT HER HOUSE BOAT DOWN AROUND KENNEDY CREEK, JUST SOUTH OF BATTLE BEND ON THE RIVER. WE WERE JOINED BY MIKE AND LINDA ABOARD A 48 FOOT SAILBOAT CALLED THE SOPHIA; RIGHT NEAR SAND MOUNTAIN AT MILE MARKER 36. WE MEANDERED DOWN THE LAZY RIVER TOGETHER AS THE SUN WARMED UP AND MADE FOR A VERY PLEASANT AFTERNOON. IRIS WAS ESPECIALLY CHEERFUL AT THE KNOWLEDGE THAT MONICA WAS GOING TO SERVE LUNCH AY HER HOUSEBOAT. WE DINED ON FRIED CATFISH, CHEESE GRITS, HUSH PUPPIES AND DILL PICKLES FOLLOWED BY A THICK SLICE OF FRESH MADE POUND CAKE. AS I BOARDED THE BOAT WITH THE LAST PIECE OF CAKE, ZEPHYR PRACTICALLY SNATCHED IT FROM MY HAND. I HAD TO CUT THE BIG BIRD A SLICE; PERCHED WITH ONE CLAW ON THE RAIL, THE OTHER AROUND THE CAKE, HE DEVOURED IT. CAPTAIN JEREMY AND I GRABBED A PIECE OF TURKEY FROM THE FREEZER AND BAITED OUR HOOKS IN HOPE OF GETTING A BITE WHILE WAITING FOR OUR CUE TO CAST OFF. JEREMY FISHED THE CURRENT IN DEEPER WATERS WITH NO SUCCESS. I FISHED CLOSER TO SHORE OUT OF THE CURRENT AND STARTED GETTING A FEW NIBBLES, THEN A BIG TUG AND BAM, MY BAIT WAS GONE! GEORGE ORDERED US TO CAST OFF BEFORE I COULD TAKE ANOTHER SHOT AT

IT, BUT IT WAS COOL TO AT LEAST GET A BITE ON THE LINE. THE CATFISH HERE CAN GET PRETTY BIG AND I’M HOPING TO GET ANOTHER SHOT AT IT LATER ON.  WE PULLED IN AT DARK TO BRUSHY CREEK TO SET UP CAMP A FEW MILES SHORT OF OUR DESIRED LOCATION AT OWL CREEK. THERE WAS A LOT OF GROUND COVER TO CLEAR SO WE MANNED THE AXES, BRUSH CUTTERS AND MACHETES TO CLEAR A SPACE TO SLEEP. TENTS SHARED CLOSE QUARTERS

THAT NIGHT AND WE WERE ALL STUFFED FROM A LATE LUNCH. IRIS WHIPPED UP A CHICKEN CHILI FOR US WITH ONIONS, CHEESE AND SOUR CREAM. A DASH OF HOT SAUCE AND IT WAS SHOWTIME!  WE WERE READY FOR THE NIGHT’S ENTERTAINMENT. OUR SPEAKER FOR THE EVENING WAS MR. CHUCK HESS OF THE US FORESTRY SERVICE. HE TOLD US ABOUT THE RED COCKADED WOODPECKERS AND THEIR RELATIONSHIP TO THE FOREST. HE MENTIONED THAT THE LONG LEAF PINE IS CAPABLE OF GROWING UP TO FIVE HUNDRED YEARS OF AGE. THE RED COCKADED WOODPECKER IS ONLY FOUND IN LONG LEAF PINE FORESTS. THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE TWO WAS VERY INTERESTING TO LEARN ABOUT.  THE LONG LEAF PINE CAN SUFFER FROM A MALADY THAT CREATES A SOFT SPOT IN THE WOOD THAT THE WOODPECKER CAN PENETRATE WITH ITS BILL. OTHERWISE THE WOOD IS VERY HARD AND AS IT GROWS BECOMES VERY VALUABLE AS LUMBER. IT CAN TAKE EIGHTY YEARS OR MORE BEFORE THE

SOFT WOOD CONDITION OCCURS THAT ALLOWS THE WOODPECKER THE ABILITY TO CREATE A NEST, WITH THE SOFT WOOD CONDITION RENDERING THE TREE WORTHLESS FOR THE LUMBER TRADE; THUS THE NICKNAME PECKERWOOD.

A DECLINE IN THE ACREAGE OF LONG LEAF PINE HAS LEAD TO A DECLINE IN THE WOODPECKER POPULATION. NOW EXTINCT, THE IVORY BILLED WOODPECKER THRIVED ON THE LONGHORN BEETLES LIVING IN THE PINE TREES; WITH A REQUIREMENT OF 6,000 ACRES PER MATED PAIRING OF THE SPECIES. THEIR EXTINCTION WAS A RESULT OF OVER HARVESTING OF THEIR HABITAT. THEY NO LONGER HAVE AN ENVIRONMENT LARGE ENOUGH TO LIVE.  ONE OF OUR CREW MEMBERS, DANIEL, CELEBRATED HIS BIRTHDAY THAT EVENING TILL THE WEE HOURS WITH HIS FELLOW CREW MATES. WE SANG HAPPY BIRTHDAY AND ENJOYED A TERRIFIC CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH FUDGE ICING.  MEANWHILE CREW MEMBERS JIMMY AND NEVA TOOK MARILYN UP RIVER BACK TO GASKIN PARK IN THE DARK. TWO HOURS LATER WE WERE ALL CONCERNED. ONE OF THEIR DELAYS WAS MARILYN’S BREATHING THE NIGHT AIR SLOWED THEM DOWN, THEN THEIR BOAT LOST THEIR BOW LIGHT AND THEY GOT STOPPED BY THE FWC. DUE TO A LACK OF RADIO CONTACT, WE NOTIFIED THE COAST GUARD AND PRAYED FOR THEIR SAFE RETURN. ABOUT AN HOUR

LATER OUR PRAYERS WERE ANSWERED AND EVERYONE WAS SAFE AND ACCOUNTED FOR.  I HAD RETIRED EARLY TO CHECK ON THE WORLD SERIES AND CONTINUE WRITING THIS JOURNAL. NEW YORK WON THE WORLD SERIES THAT NIGHT AND I DRIFTED OFF TO SLEEP AFTER A VERY LONG DAY. 

 

NOVEMBER 5TH - DAY SIX

THE DAY GREETED US WITH GOOD WEATHER. WE BROKE CAMP AFTER IRIS SET US UP WITH CEREAL AND MILK FOR A QUICK BREAKFAST. WE HAD A LONG PADDLE AHEAD OF US. BY LUNCH TIME WE LANDED IN GADSDEN AT A PARK

WHERE THERE WAS A RESTROOM THAT LOOKED LIKE A LOG CABIN BUT WAS MADE OF CAST CONCRETE. NO WATER SUPPLY, AND A NO FLUSH TOILET THAT READ, “PLEASE DON’T THROW TRASH DOWN IN THE TOILET, IT IS VERY

DIFFICULT TO REMOVE.” NEARBY WAS A PAVILION WITH A HISTORY OF THE PLACE, A DIORAMA OF THE FORT THERE AND SOME HISTORIC ARTIFACTS ON DISPLAY THAT WAS BUILT THERE BACK IN THE 1970'S.  KAYAKING IN TANDEM WITH PATTI ON THE TRIP WAS MARTHA DIAZ. SHE HAD HER HUSBAND JOHN JOIN US FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE TRIP THERE AT GADSDEN.  BEFORE EATING OUR LUNCH, OUR SPEAKERS INCLUDED A CARETAKER OF THE LANDING WHO EXPLAINED THE LOCALE, THE INDIANS AND THEIR INFLUENCE ON THE REGION, AND ITS INTRICACIES.  OUR SECOND SPEAKER, SETH BLITCH, WAS FROM THE FLORIDA DEPARTMENT OF ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AND SPOKE ABOUT THE TERRITORY, THE RIVER AND HIS ROLE IN HELPING TO EDUCATE THE PUBLIC. HE LEFT US A BIG MAP OF THE REGION SHOWING VARIOUS JURISDICTIONS OF SEVERAL AGENCIES RESPONSIBLE FOR OVERSIGHT OF RIVER.  WE ENJOYED GRILLED CHEESEBURGERS AND THEN RETURNED TO THE RIVER, THE SUN WAS WARM AND THE WIND WAS COOL, BLOWING STEADILY OUT OF THE NORTH AS IT HAD BEEN ALL WEEK. WE MADE CAMP ON A DREDGE SPOIL SITE AND SETTLED IN FOR THE EVENING. OUR LAST SPEAKERS CAME TO SHARE THEIR KNOWLEDGE. A GENTLEMAN SPOKE ON THE IVORY BILLED WOODPECKER AND HIS COMPANION; ON THE TUPELO HONEY PRODUCTION MADE FROM THE LOCAL WOODLAND TREES THERE.  WE DINED ON GRITS WITH CHEDDAR AND GOUDA CHEESE, CATFISH FILLETS AND GREEN BEANS. WE FINISHED THE NIGHT OFF WITH JIMMY AND SAM PLAYING THEIR GUITARS AND WE ALL GOT A TASTE OF MEADE; BREWING TUPELO HONEY AND SCUPPERNONG GRAPES TOGETHER TO MAKE A WINE LIKE CONCOCTION BY OUR SPEAKER ON MAKING TUPELO HONEY.  I GOT TO MAN THE CAMERA THAT EVENING AND SHOT SOME FOOTAGE OF SAM AND HIS STORY ON SONG WRITING. STARTING AT AGE TEN, HE HAS PLAYED

CLASSICAL ACOUSTIC GUITAR FOR TEN YEARS NOW; AND HAS STARTED WRITING SONGS. ONE WAS FOR HIS IRISH ROOM MATE THAT HAD A SORT OF JIG TO IT; THE OTHER A SONG DEDICATED TO HIS YOUNGER SISTER, MICHELLE.  THE FULL MOON ROSE OVER THE RIVER AND SHOWN DOWN BRIGHTLY, THE  OWLS AND FROGS MAKING THEIR MUSIC LULLED US TO SLEEP.

 

NOVEMBER 6TH - DAY SEVEN

AS WE GOT READY FOR BREAKFAST I AWOKE EARLY TO HELP CLEAN UP THE GALLEY. I MADE A CONCOCTION OF LEFTOVER GRITS AND CATFISH TO GO WITH OUR SCRAMBLED EGGS AND BACON; IT WAS QUITE POPULAR WITH EVERYONE. GEORGE BROKE OUT SOME TUPELO HONEY AND WE ENJOYED IT ON OUR WHEAT BREAD WITH ORANGE JUICE AND COFFEE. I SET UP A CAMERA ON A TRI-POD OVER BY THE CANOES AND HAD THE PLEASURE TO INTERVIEW OUR SEVERAL  OF OUR GUESTS ONE BY ONE AND ASKED THEM THEIR NAME, WHERE THEY WERE FROM AND WHAT THEY LIKED ABOUT THEIR TRIP; AND WHAT WE COULD DO TO MAKE IT EVEN BETTER. WE WERE OVERWHELMINGLY PRAISED BY THE GROUP WITH VERY LITTLE COMPLAINT. WE BOARDED EVERYONE ONTO THEIR BOATS, CANOES AND KAYAKS AND SENT THEM OFF TO ENJOY THEIR LAST DAY ON THE RIVER; ENDING OUR JOURNEY AT THE APALACHICOLA MARITIME MUSEUM. CAPTAIN JEREMY AND I MADE OUR WAY BACK ON A DIFFERENT PART OF THE RIVER, STOPPING OCCASIONALLY TO DROP A LINE TO SEE IF WE COULD CATCH A BITE. THERE WERE MANY BOATS

THAT WE ENCOUNTERED AS WE MADE OUR WAY BACK; AS THIS WAS THE WEEKEND FOR THE APALACHICOLA SEAFOOD FESTIVAL. WE PASSED BY AN OLD RAILROAD SWING BRIDGE ON OUR WAY HOME AND SAW A DERELICT SHRIMP BOAT; NOW BEING USED AS A PIRATE/HOUSE BOAT BY A FRIEND OF CAPTAIN JEREMY’S. HAVING A LITTLE TIME TO SHARE, I INQUIRED ABOUT HIS PAST. CAPTAIN JEREMY HAILS FROM BEND, OREGON AND HAS LIVED HERE IN FLORIDA FOR SIX YEARS. HE WAS JUST TWENTY-FOUR WHEN HE LEFT HOME IN SEARCH OF HIMSELF. AS HE MADE HIS WAY TO FLORIDA HE WOUND UP IN PORT ST. JOE HITCHING HIS WAY ACROSS THE STATE AND GOT A RIDE FROM A FELLA WHO NEEDED HELP FIXING HIS HOUSE. SOME TIME LATER HE FOUND A JOB WORKING ON BOATS WHEN HE MET GEORGE WHEN HE WAS EMPLOYED AT THE WELDING SHOPT THAT CUSTOMIZED THE STARFISH [A 35 FOOT POWER CATAMARAN WITH TWIN FOUR STROKE 115HP YAMAHA ENGINES] FOR MAKING RIVER TOURS ON THE APALACHICOLA RIVER.  HE’S BEEN IN THE EMPLOY OF THE MARITIME MUSEUM EVER SINCE THEN.  AS THE CAPTAIN AND I CIRCLED THE RIVER WAITING FOR OUR GROUP OF INTREPID EXPLORERS TO CATCH UP; WE LOOKED AT THE SHRIMP BOAT TIED TO THE RIVER BANK. IT WAS TATTERED AND WEATHERED TO THE POINT IT WOULD BE TOO EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR; SO HIS FRIENDS QUINN AND NIKKI LIVE ABOARD THE OLD BOAT; ENJOYING A LAID BACK LIFE STYLE ON THE RIVER.  OUR GROUP UPON THE WATER ENJOYED A BAG LUNCH OF TURKEY AND CHEESE WITH APPLES AND A CARAMEL DIP WITH CRACKERS AND SODA WHILE MAKING THEIR WAY THROUGH THE SLOUGH BY ST. MARKS PASS. AS WE WATCHED THEM COME UP TO OUR LOCATION ON THE RIVER THE SUN SHONE WARM AND BRIGHT ACROSS THE SHINING WATERS.

WE HEADED FOR THE WATER TOWER OFF OUR STARBOARD SIDE AND OUR FINAL PORT OF CALL; THE APALACHICOLA MARITIME MUSEUM. IT WAS JUST A LITTLE PAST THREE IN THE AFTERNOON. WE PULLED UP TO THE NEW CONCRETE

DOCK AND MADE READY TO DISEMBARK THE SHIP’S SUPPLIES AND TAKE ON WATER TO CLEAN THE GALLEY AND MAKE OUR VESSEL READY FOR HER NEXT ADVENTURE. SURPRISINGLY, THEY PADDLED RIGHT PAST US. THEY WENT TO THE BLESSING OF THE FLEET BEFORE RETURNING TO THE MUSEUM.  INSIDE THE MUSEUM WE SAID OUR GOOD BYES TO THE FOLKS FROM OUT OF TOWN. I WAS FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO BE INVITED TO DINE AT THE FESTIVAL

WITH THE CREW. THERE WAS PLENTY TO CHOOSE FROM AND WE ALL ATE HEARTILY; THEN WALKED BACK TO THE MUSEUM TO PACK UP OUR GEAR AND HEAD FOR OUR TEMPORARY QUARTERS ON ST. GEORGE ISLAND FOR THE NIGHT

AT GEORGE’S HOME BY THE BEACH. WE CLIMBED UP TO THE ROOF TOP DECK TO WATCH THE STARS AND UNWIND AFTER A LONG AND ADVENTUROUS VOYAGE ON ONE OF FLORIDA’S MOST BEAUTIFUL RIVERS. 

 

NOVEMBER 7TH - DAY EIGHT

A LONG HOT SHOWER, A HOT CUP OF COFFEE, A WARM BED TO WAKE FROM AND ANOTHER DAY IN THE SUNSHINE [THAT IS APALACHICOLA] STARTED MY DAY. IRIS AND I TOOK A VAN TO THE MUSEUM TO MEET UP WITH THE REST OF THE CREW. GEORGE AND SAM HAD RISEN EARLY TO RUN IN THE 5K FUN RUN FOR CHARITY AND I GOT A TICKET TO THE LOCAL CHURCH BREAKFAST FROM HIM.  I WALKED OVER TO THE UNITED METHODIST CHURCH TO ENJOY A PANCAKE AND SAUSAGE BREAKFAST WITH SOME OF THE LOCAL MEMBERS OF THE CONGREGATION AND REINTRODUCED MYSELF TO MR. SAWYER, WHOM I HAD MET AT THE APALACHICOLA PROGRAM MANAGERS MEETING. HE MENTIONED TO ME HE HAD BEEN THE THIRD GENERATION TO LIVE HERE AND HIS FATHER HAD BROUGHT THE FIRST CRANE LIFT TO THE WATERFRONT WHERE THE MARITIME MUSEUM NOW RESIDES DOWN ON WATER STREET.

COLONEL BUZZETT AND HIS WIFE WERE SEATED AT OUR TABLE WITH MR. SAWYER AND HE ASKED HOW I CAME TO APALACHICOLA. I EXPLAINED OUR TRIP AND THE WATERFRONTS PARTNERSHIP PROGRAM HERE AND IN MAYPORT.

HE TOLD ME HE STAYS IN THE MAYPORT NAVAL AIR STATION’S HOTEL WHEN VISITING MAYO CLINIC TO TREAT HIS WIFE’S BREAST CANCER. HE ALSO MENTIONED HIS SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY AND THE FACT HE GRADUATED

FROM WEST POINT ACADEMY [WHERE GEORGE HAD ATTENDED] ON D-DAY BACK DURING WORLD WAR II. WE TALKED ABOUT THE ISLAND OF ST. GEORGE AND HOW HE KNEW GEORGE’S DAD AND GRAND FATHER WHO HAD BUILT HOMES THERE ON THE ISLAND MANY YEARS AGO. HE BID ME FAREWELL AS HE AND HIS WIFE RETURNED TO THE ISLAND.

I MADE MY WAY DOWN THE STREET TO WATCH THE PARADE AFTER STOPPING AT THE LOCAL GAS STATION FOR A COKE AND A CHAT WITH THE PROPRIETOR THERE WHO WAS PROUDLY WEARING HIS UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA TEE SHIRT WITH SEVERAL NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS ON IT. WE CHATTED ABOUT THE GATORS AND THE LOCAL ECONOMY BEFORE I HEADED OUT TO SEE THE PARADE. I RAN INTO SEVERAL OF OUR FRIENDS FROM THE CANOE TRIP

WATCHING THE PARADE FROM THE STREET CORNER. THEN I AMBLED DOWN THE STREET TO TAKE IN SOME OF THE LOCAL COLOR AND TAKE SOME PICTURES OF THE TOWN. I RETURNED TO THE MUSEUM TO FINISH WRITING MY JOURNAL AND GET STARTED ON THE PLANS FOR THE NEW DOCK SHELTER FOR THE MUSEUM. IT’S A LITTLE AFTER NOON AND FOLKS ARE ALL OVER THE PLACE GETTING READY FOR A LIVE BAND TO COME AND PLAY HERE LATER TODAY; AS VAN MORRISON’S “TUPELO HONEY” PLAYS IN THE BACKGROUND. IT’S TIME TO GET BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD.  LATER IN THE EVENING WE ALL MADE OUR WAY BACK TO ST. GEORGE ISLAND FOR A LITTLE GET TOGETHER AT GEORGE’S HOME ON THE ISLAND. I BUNKED IN THE BACK OF THE HOUSE WHERE GEORGE’S DAD HAD A WORKSHOP. HE CARVED REPLICAS OF THE MANY WILDFOWL FOUND IN THE PANHANDLE AND ON THE ISLAND.

 

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